The circle of watch friends privately circulates the phrase ‘there are only three watches in the world, Patek Philippe, Rolex and others’. This sentence highly summarizes the status of Patek Philippe and Rolex in the watch industry, one is the king of high-end watchmaking, and the other is the luxury watch brand with the highest total sales. However, many watch friends will ask, since they are already ‘luxury watch brands’, but why Rolex does not have a tourbillon? Before talking about this topic, we must first figure out what the ‘Tourbillon’ is. The mechanical clock movement uses a balance spring speed regulation system. This system directly determines the travel time accuracy of the clock. The hairspring is a circle of metal wires arranged according to the Archimedes spiral (similar to common mosquito coils). The hairspring arranged in this way naturally does not have its center of gravity. When the hairspring is loaded on the balance wheel, it will expand and contract as the balance wheel moves. At this time, the shape of the hairspring will change. Wingchoosy uses an 11x magnifying glass to shoot a slow motion video of the balance spring. In the video we can clearly see that the shape of the hairspring is irregular when it is contracted and enlarged, and the amplitude of the contraction and expansion of the upper right corner is larger than that of the lower left corner. The shape of the hairspring changes during movement, and the center of gravity of the hairspring moves around, shifting more severely than when stationary. This offset is subtle, but it is intolerable for a hairspring balance system that runs nearly 500,000 times a day. A small bit of offset amplification will affect the clock’s travel time accuracy. To solve this problem, Abraham-Louis Breguet, the founder of the watch brand Breguet, proposed in 1795 that a part of the hairspring be bent upwards to form a double-layer hairspring. The weight of the second hairspring was used to balance the balance Center of Gravity, a method of keeping the center of gravity as central as possible. This design was called ‘Breguet Spring’ Breguet hairspring. This is a graph of internal experimental test data from the precision engineering AG (professional research and development and production of hairsprings), a brother of the watch brand Henry Moser. The dark blue line is the center of gravity offset track of the ordinary flat hairspring during the movement, and the cyan line is the center of gravity offset track of the Breguet hairspring. It is not difficult to see from the above experimental data that the center of gravity of the ordinary flat hairspring shifts very significantly when the movement of the movement. The Breguet hairspring has greatly improved this center of gravity shift and can basically maintain the center of gravity of the hairspring. By June 26, 1801, Abraham-Louis Breguet had been granted a patent by an official agency for a period of ten years, which was named ‘Tourbillon Tourbillon’. Breguet envisages installing the entire hairspring escapement speed control system in a movable frame that makes one full revolution per minute. In this way, all errors occur repeatedly and cancel each other out. According to Breguet’s own vision, the design of the tourbillon is very ‘perfect’. But the change from the invention design to the real thing is not smooth. Breguet patented it in 1801, but he had only experimental products. Only four years later, the tourbillon pocket watch was officially launched to the market, and it is not a mass-produced version, but a customized one. From 1805 to 1823, Abraham-Louis Breguet died. In 18 years Breguet sold only 35 tourbillon clocks. Such sales performance is very different from that of watches equipped with Breguet hairsprings. Why is this happening? That was because it was too difficult to make a tourbillon by relying on the timepiece processing technology at that time. The power in the clockwork of the pocket watch movement was not much, and now it needs to move a movable frame. Therefore, the movable frame of the tourbillon must be made very lightweight, and the weight of the entire tourbillon frame is less than 1 gram, so that the wheel train of the movement can move. Such a lightweight frame is difficult to make in the era of incomplete lathe processing technology, and even if the shape of the frame is made, the balance of the entire hairspring escapement system must be considered. Therefore, the manufacture of the tourbillon has always been a problem! According to records, more than 200 years after the invention of the tourbillon, only about 200 watchmakers mastered this advanced technology. Due to the small number, difficult processing, and high value, tourbillon is regarded as ‘artifact’ by many watch friends. Often there are such thoughts that ‘a brand with a tourbillon is powerful, a brand without a tourbillon is the low-end’. As for why Rolex doesn’t have a tourbillon? In fact, it can be divided into three stages to explore the reasons. The first stage is from 1905 to the 1950s, the second stage is from 1953 to the 1990s, and the third stage is from the 1990s to the present. The first stage: from 1905 to the 1950s, the ability was not enough. Rolex could not make a tourbillon single-button chronograph Rolex Ref. 2303. This explanation sounded incredible at first. Hans Wilsdorf founded the predecessor of Rolex in 1905. In the following days, he opened the situation with two magic weapons ‘Oyster Waterproof Case’ + ‘Automatic Movement’. But at this time Rolex’s movement research and development, production capacity is not strong! Rolex’s movement at that time was commissioned by Aegler. Therefore, Rolex at the time could not do it. Patek Philippe pocket watches using the Albert Pellaton-Favre tourbillon movement @ 佳 士 得 not only could not be made by Rolex, at that time there were few brands that could independently produce tourbillon pocket watches and watches. Tourbillon pocket watches, including Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Girard Perregaux, and Athens, are often ordered by watchmakers for processing, and then sold under their own trademarks. The most famous watchmakers are Albert Pellaton-Favre (1832-1914) or his son James César Pellaton (1873-1954). This is why we find that the tourbillon pocket watches of these brands actually look similar. Of course, in 1947, Omega made the Cal.30L tourbillon watch movement and Patek Philippe in 1956 developed the Cal.34T tourbillon watch movement, but at the time they were all produced on a small scale as an observatory competition and could not do To mass production. The second stage: from 1953 to the 1990s, the product positioning was clear, Rolex did not need to be the tourbillon Rolex Explorer series predecessor ‘Oyster Perpetual’ @ACM 劳力士 The most famous sports model is from the 1953 ‘Submariner’ submarine This series is commonly known as ‘Water Ghost’, but it is not that the Rolex sports model is the first ancestor of the mountain. In 1953, the British expedition team wore a Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch and successfully climbed to the top of Mount Everest for the first time. To commemorate this, Rolex launched the Explorer series. After that, professional watches such as Rolex’s Submariner, Greenwich, MILGAUSS, Daytona, Sea Digger, Explorer, Yacht-Master, etc. were successively introduced and won the market’s acceptance. At this time, Rolex’s product positioning is gradually clear, and it is necessary to be a precise and reliable professional watch. The third stage: from the 1990s to the establishment of the brand status, Rolex disdain, can not be a tourbillon. This is a Patek Philippe Ref. 3369, its owner is Philippe Stern, which is the former president of Patek Philippe. Looks like a normal small three-pin style, but it has a lot to offer. From the middle of the 19th century to the middle of the 20th century, the Observatory Chronometer clock competition was held for almost 100 years, and major watch brands took out their best products to participate in the competition. This Patek Philippe Ref. 3369 watch is equipped with a small-sized manual tourbillon movement numbered 861115, which was originally created to participate in the Swiss Observatory Chronometer competition. Because the information of that year is paper and coupled with geopolitics, there is no systematic data on the Internet to query. Dr. Christian Müller from the Observatory Chronometer Database (OCD) near the water platform uploaded the details of the 3356 participating movements of the Neuchatel Observatory from 1945 to 1967 and provided free inquiries. Interested table friends can visit www.observatory.watch to browse. Through inquiry, we can know that the 861115 movement equipped with precision tourbillon obtained a comprehensive score of 16.73 in that year. Omega, which also made a tourbillon movement, scored 12.1 and 18.22. Such a result, the comprehensive ranking in the 3356 participating movements is already after 2000 … (the lower the comprehensive score value, the more accurate the watch) It is worth noting that the Observatory Chronometer competition is only a static test , Does not simulate the movement of the movement after the watch is assembled. So when it comes to travel accuracy, the tourbillon with complicated structure will be inferior to the static observatory test in actual wearing. In this way, the tourbillon has no meaning to Rolex. The quartz crisis triggered by Japan’s Seiko in the 1970s and 1980s shook the world’s watchmaking industry, and the Swiss mechanical watchmaking industry was hit hard. Many brands went bankrupt, closed down, merged, sold, and downgraded. Fortunately, Rolex survived this crisis. In addition, during the crisis period, Rolex did not lower its production level, and also completed the upgrade from the 30 series to the 31 series. As a result, after the crisis, Rolex’s brand status began to be established, and its brand positioning became gradually clear. It was necessary to produce accurate and reliable watches. The tourbillon was considered the most advanced technology in 1801. In order to improve the accuracy of timepieces, Breguet must not use complex mechanical structures to compensate for the deviation of the center of gravity of the balance spring. However, experiments have proved that the travel time accuracy of tourbillon watches is not better than that of ordinary watches. At the same time, the complex mechanical structure has the disadvantages of high cost, instability, easy damage, difficult maintenance, slow commissioning, and expensive maintenance. change. For Rolex in pursuit of precision and reliability, the tourbillon is a backward and high-risk technology. Rather than producing a ‘delicate’ tourbillon, it is better to ‘win in stability’.
On June 28, 2015, Sir David AKERS-JONES, Chairman of Beam International Foundation, hosted a charity dinner at Conrad Hong Kong, and the foundation’s smiling ambassador, Guo Jingjing And the director of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region Affairs and Health Bureau, Mr Ko Wing Man, attended the evening event.
The Beam International Foundation was founded in 1991. Its predecessor was the ‘Smile Action China Fund’, a medical charity that is committed to providing free surgical treatment for poor children and adolescents with cleft lip and palate in China. With medical assistance operations worldwide, the foundation has achieved milestones over the years.
An art collection auction was held at the charity dinner to raise funds for the foundation. The Hublot Big Bang caviar stainless steel and diamond custom watch is one of the lots. In the end, this watch was sold for 140,000 Hong Kong dollars. All the donations were donated to support this meaningful medical cause. Hublot exhibited the ‘art of fusion’ by participating in charity.
This Big Bang Caviar stainless steel and diamond watch is modeled on one of the most popular models in 2011, the Black Ceramic Big Bang Caviar. The case diameter is 41 mm and the bezel is set with 36 diamonds, which is more precious, elegant and feminine than previous models. In addition, the case is engraved with the Beam logo as a memorial.
Omega Sea Horse Series Aqua Terra Couple Watch
Stainless steel and rose gold materials, table diameters of 38.5 mm and 30 mm respectively, with chic dark brown ‘teak texture’ dial and high-grade K gold pointer scale, with Omega’s own 8500 coaxial movement.
Men’s watch sells for 62600 yuan, women’s watch sells for 53,500 yuan
Single table only 50,000 to 100,000 yuan & mdash; & mdash; low risk long-term solution
考虑 From the perspective of ordinary consumers, choosing a watch is nothing more than measuring brand, style and price. But from the standpoint of lovers, they not only think about whether this pair of watches is worth buying at this moment, but also the scene where two people hand in hand to return home in the distant future.
What kind of watch can last as long as good love? At least when I want to wear it, the watch can still be accurate and not out of date. At the price range of 50,000 yuan to 100,000 yuan, we recommend to readers Longines, Omega and Rolex couple watches. These three brands do not need us to introduce too much. Their watches are wearable and highly recognized, and they are not timid at any time. For the middle class in China, which is generally not affluent at hand, it is tantamount to finding a solution once and for all.
Among them we recommend the Rolex Date Watch. Choosing a Rolex is like choosing a conservative, but loyal and reliable partner. You can safely live with it forever. Whether they are successful couples or struggling, they are eager to have a stable family and mature relationship. They are no longer bewildered by appearances, knowing that love must be like a Rolex, and after years of trials, they are still reliable. Although simple and simple, they can be entrusted to life.
The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer watch showcases the ‘Death Squad’ style favored by the times. Military style is a popular hot spot this year. The ubiquitous khaki camouflage print has returned strongly, rekindling the soul of the ‘special forces’ and ‘devil girl soldiers’ lurking in the heart. The trend of military uniforms is in the ascendant, but choosing the ‘Death Squad’ style is not without risks. It is not advisable to use the entire set of references. Instead, starting from the details, choosing a suitable accessory for matching is undoubtedly an excellent choice and will immediately Enhance the inner taste of the whole set of clothing and show its style charm in subtleties. TAG Heuer’s new Camouflage off-road watch is the perfect choice.
Interpretation of the ‘Death Squad’ style with camouflage or military green watches
Because this watch belongs to the Aquaracer series, TAG Heuer’s most prestigious sports watch series, it has all the qualities that an off-road watch should have.
As early as 1892, the pioneer of the watch industry, Mr. Edouard Heuer (Edouard Heuer) has successfully obtained the first watch case waterproof patent in watchmaking history, and then achieved great success. In 2003, Tag Heuer launched its first watch in the diving series. Since then, the watch has continued to develop and become more and more brilliant, becoming a perfect timepiece capable of coping with extreme conditions including diving and sailing.
The new watch is water-resistant to 300 meters, and the sturdy but lightweight case is coated with black PVD and is made of sandblasted grade 2 titanium to enhance its invisible effect and avoid attracting the eyes of the enemy. The bezel has a minute scale (the first 15 minutes mark each minute), and is made of scratch-resistant black matte ceramic, which is the best choice in harsh environments.
In order to create two watches of this series, a NATO strap with the same tone as the dial is used to decorate. Dangerous environments such as the Siberian tundra are the inspiration for camouflage prints. TAG Heuer is tailor-made for camouflage models. The strap is woven with threads of different colors, which is not only strong and consistent in color. The military green style with the same color strap and stitching embellishment shows that military operations are not child’s play.
Reference number WAY208D.FC8221 (camouflage)
WAY208E.FC8222 (Army Green)
Movement TAG Heuer Calibre 5, self-winding movement with date window
Case diameter 43 mm
Black PVD-coated sandblasted Grade 2 titanium case
Black ceramic or aluminum sandblasted minute scale with unidirectional rotating bezel with green plating
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Sandblasted Tier 2 titanium crown with black PVD coating and crown protection at 3 o’clock
Black PVD-coated sandblasted Tier 2 titanium case back
Dial Blue camo opal or matte khaki dial
Bezel in blue camouflage opal or matte khaki 60-second scale
Facet, hour and minute hands, charcoal-coated SuperLuminova®, or polished black gold-plated and khaki SuperLuminova®
Blue lacquered central hands coated with charcoal gray SuperLuminova®, or polished red and black gold-plated and khaki SuperLuminova®
Black or green ‘TAG Heuer’ logo printed at 12 o’clock
‘AQUARACER CALIBRE 5 AUTOMATIC 300 m / 1000 ft’ at 6 o’clock
Date display at 3 o’clock with magnifying glass
Water-resistant to 300 meters
Strap Blue camouflage NATO or khaki strap. With frosted stainless steel buckle and engraved TAG Heuer logo.
At 7:00 on August 13th, eight Breitling L-39C performance aircraft took off from the formation of Jiayuguan Airport, flying over the ‘Guancheng’ and ‘Overhanging Wall’ of Jiayuguan in turn, leaving at the end of the Great Wall. wonderful perfomance. The reporter boarded Breitling’s ‘Fair Child’ SA227-AC twin-engine propeller support aircraft to follow the fleet interview and shoot, and recorded the flying moments of this famous flight performance team at close range. The Breitling Jets will continue to fly to Karamay, Xinjiang to participate in the 2013 Karamay Air Tourism Festival in Xinjiang, China, to end the performance of this trip to Asia. The Breitling Jet Team is currently the world’s largest civil professional jet aerobatic team. The seven Czech-made L-39C albatross two-seater jet military trainers and pilots are mostly from the French Air Force and the French Patrol air show team. Every year, the Breitling Jets performs about 50 air shows in the world.
Although the current MERS epidemic in South Korea is in flames, many global travelers are discouraged from travelling to South Korea. French boutique Christian Dior Christine Dior is still on the itinerary. Store — The new boutique flagship store, House of Dior, is located in Qingtan-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul’s city center, and is expected to become a distinctive local landmark. If you have the opportunity to travel to Qingtan Cave, you might as well pilgrimage and appreciate the essence of this beautiful Dior building.
The House of Dior’s unique flagship store in Cheongdam-dong, Seoul looks dreamy and elegant like white petals on the front, and Dior’s signature stars and rattan pattern on the side. This was won by the Pritzker Architecture Award in 1994. The award-winning French architect Christian de Portzamparc and Peter Marino, an architect, landscape designer and painter, together create a dream-like six-story building Floor high-end custom building.
Dior Qingtan-dong interior elegant furnishings latest boutique
Debao Sambalk and Marino are inspired by the tailoring process and haute couture lines of the Haute Couture Workshop at 30 Montaign Avenue, Paris, to create a pleated, soft, round three-dimensional building structure line that combines light and transparency The interior design, for Dior to create a revolutionary building with perfect coordination and integration of three-dimensional geometric structures in the Cheongdam-dong area of Seoul, is a representative of abundant creativity and a symbol of technological achievement.
Dior’s new flagship store has a total of six floors. From the first floor underground, it is the Dior Homme boutique. Each floor carefully displays the latest products of Dior’s full range, and VIP rooms and galleries are set up on the fourth floor. Cafe open-air cafe, opened to the public on June 20, provides a brand new shopping experience for all consumers.
Esprit Dior spirit brand art exhibition invites Korean contemporary art creators to participate in this artistic creative release
To celebrate the opening of a brand new exclusive boutique in Asia, Dior has launched a limited edition collection of exclusive limited edition bags and accessories that are only sold in Seoul, Korea. All limited edition works will be engraved with ‘limited edition’ handwriting and independent numbers.
Esprit Dior Art Show
In addition, to celebrate the opening of the House of Dior flagship store, from now until August 25, Dior will also display the “Esprit Dior Spirit Brand Art Exhibition” at Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP). Exploring the brand’s art field extended from high-end custom uniforms, thematic performances gradually explored the fantastic essence of high-end custom, and invited six contemporary art creators from South Korea to participate in this artistic creation.
On August 14, 2015, the Swiss watch brand IWC presented the “IWC IWC Masterpiece New Series Exhibition and Watchmaking Class” at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Beijing China World Trade Center. It has been 147 years since the brand was founded in 1868. Adhering to the tenet of pioneering technology, perfect craftsmanship, superior quality and extraordinary design, the brand has established its position in the field of luxury watches. This year, at the 75th anniversary of the brand’s most prestigious Portuguese series, the brand launched a number of outstanding new Portuguese series with ‘Legends, Classics’.
At the beginning of the year, the new Portuguese series released at the Geneva International High-level Watch and Clock Exhibition collectively made their debut in Beijing, including: Portuguese series calendar watch, Portuguese series perpetual calendar watch, Portuguese series automatic watch, Portuguese series tourbillon retrograde watch, Portuguese series Nautical Elite Chrono Watch, Portuguese Elite World Time Watch, and two special edition watches created for the 75th anniversary of the Portuguese series, the Portuguese series Perpetual Calendar Digital Date and Month special edition ’75th Anniversary’ and the Portuguese manual A special edition of the 75th anniversary of the eight-day winding power reserve watch. Presents a time feast belonging to the Portuguese series for watch fans.
Portuguese Series Calendar
The first annual calendar watch of the Portuguese series, the annual calendar display is set at 12 o’clock on the dial, and three independent semi-circular windows show the month, date and week. This ‘American style’ date arrangement is not only related to technology and design, but also to honor the founder of the brand, Mr. F. A. Jones from the United States.
Equipped with the newly developed Cal.52850 movement, equipped with two barrels, it can provide enough energy for the watch’s power reserve of up to seven days. This annual calendar movement took nearly five years, and its switching mechanism has automatically taken into account the different days of each month, and only needs to be manually adjusted at the end of February every year.
Almanac watches are available in different styles: 18k red gold models with silver-plated dials (model: IW503504); stainless steel models with silver-plated dials (model: IW503501) or night blue dials (model: IW503502).
Portuguese Perpetual Calendar
Mirror symmetry to show the change of the moon phase profit and loss in the northern and southern hemispheres. This is also the first initiative by IWC engineers to allow the wearers of the southern hemisphere to also watch the correct moon phase position on the dial. Equipped with a new Cal.52615 homemade movement.
The North and South hemisphere dual moon phase display models are available in 18k white gold (model: IW503401) and 18k red gold (model: IW503404). The white gold version has a night blue dial, and the red gold version has a rock gray dial.
Portuguese Series Single Moon Phase Perpetual Calendar Watch
With the exception of a few minor design adjustments, the single moon phase model has no obvious changes in appearance. Only the new arched edge glass watch has visually reduced the thickness of the watch. Equipped with the newly developed Cal.52610 homemade movement. Integrating the power of two barrels, the movement provides a power reserve of up to seven days and drives nine functions and displays. The Bieleton winding system with two-way winding is equipped with newly developed ceramic pawls to ensure the highest performance.
There are two different models of the single moon phase display: the 18k white gold model (model: IW503301) with a rock gray dial and the 18k red gold model (model: IW503302) with a silver-plated dial, the moon in the latter is plated Red gold, suspended in the night blue moon phase window.
Portuguese Series Perpetual Calendar Digital Date Month Watch ’75th Anniversary’ Special Edition
Portuguese series new ‘seven-day chain’
Portuguese Elite Chronograph
The watchmaker from IWC headquarters in Schaffhausen, Switzerland made a special trip to Beijing this time, and did not attend the media to open a watchmaking class. Pointing watch fans to explore the mystery of the movement, experience the rigor and precision of watchmaking art, and share the legendary system of the brand Table craft.
The installed movement is a manual winding movement dedicated to IWC Watches. The brand has not invested this movement in the watch.
Summary: The highlight of this year’s IWC is undoubtedly the Portuguese series that is on its ’75th anniversary’. A number of new watches are equipped with a variety of new homemade movements. The new self-made movement is more refined in terms of functions, appearance, polishing and decoration, and the models have also made better fit designs for the self-made movement. For the first time, the Portuguese series of annual calendar watches, with practical functions and a lower price / performance ratio than the perpetual calendar, is a very competitive and practical business watch for the mass consumer group. I believe it will be very good. Market performance.
The ArceauTemari watch inspired by Japanese craftsmanship, combines the extraordinary craftsmanship of snowflake inlay and hard rock inlay in a collection of jewelry watches.
Temari (手 Ju) is a traditional Japanese handicraft, meaning ‘handball’, which is closely related to kimono. Sewing the remaining rags of silk kimono is enough to make these gadgets loved by court figures. Simple needlework step by step, develop complex geometric line embroidery and patterns step by step. These ancestral Maoju crafts inspired the creation of Hermes square silk cloth. One of the patterns is now reinterpreted by the Arceau watch series. The watch is made of white gold, limited edition. Diamonds are paved with snowflakes. The dial combines diamonds with white mother-of-pearl, agate, lapis lazuli, or opal to reproduce one of the wool ball patterns in a fine setting process.
There are no specific rules for the technique of snowflake inlay; each gem is independently selected and set by the craftsman; the claws need to be cut one by one to connect each diamond particle in series to form a harmonious and consistent overall effect, which is unique to each watch Place. A senior gem inlayer sets no less than 700 stones for each case, which takes almost three weeks.
The dial of each watch is carved using traditional diamond inlays and hard stone inlays. Take this watch as an example. Twenty precious stones of various shapes and sizes are ground from a single gemstone, or from a delicately cut mother-of-pearl plate. The parts are then assembled independently on a stone-set dial. Because the delicate size of the gemstone is particularly fragile, these two procedures require a high degree of precision and skill and skill, which is ingenious. As if you were in a miniature building, each part occupies a seat in the picture, forming a moving landscape. Luxurious and precious materials, engaging a fascinating dialogue with these patterns. When traditional craftsmanship meets professional wisdom, the two are compatible, adding the glory of the Japanese court to these unique creations.
Shape / size round, 34 mm diameter
Material White gold case (42.6 g), snowflake and diamond technology make each watch unique. Case set with 675 diamonds and crown
There are 27 pieces including a rose-shaped cut. Diamond (approximately 4.43 carats)
Crystal non-reflective sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 30 meters
Lugs width 17 mm
Dial Set with 176 diamonds and black agate on a white gold dial (7.27 g, 0.78 carat)
Buckle standard buckle, white gold (4.76g)
Strap Black Alligator Leather Strap